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Nelson's Column
September
The London Restaurant Awards 16th September 2008
Where’s best to eat?
Sometimes the sheer choice of things to do in London is overwhelming. Restaurants are an excellent case in point. Even if you had Michael Winner’s appetite and the enthusiasm of Jamie Oliver you’d still struggle to try a fraction of the eating out options in the city.

On top of this there’s the prohibitive cost of a posh meal. At an average of £80 a head the top notch places aren’t easy to afford – especially in these credit crunch times. Which is where the restaurant reviewer comes in handy – that elite bunch of well-fed journalists who get paid to eat Michelin-starred food. They fork out on the lobster so you don’t have to and write with acerbic wit about the experience. A good review can make or break a new dining venture in this sprawling city. In fact, I’d guess that most Londoners spend more time reading where they should be eating than actually eating there.

Earlier this month the London Restaurant Awards gave the restaurant critics – Giles Coren and his cronies – the chance to put on a swish suit (with the obligatory expanding waistband) and listen to Jack Dee while some celebs told the assembled nominees who’d won. Like a fly on the wall (better than one in the soup anyway) I observed the evening’s proceedings from the sidelines and even got some one-on-one time with the winners when they were brought backstage.

There were some curious non-foodie celebs there… as well as Jack Dee (no filming, no photos, please), Suggs from Madness gave out an award and some D-lister from Celebrity Apprentice (I’ve no idea who he was either) threw a hissy fit for not being recognised. I also spotted a Dragons’ Den millionaire, a Spice Girl and Jimmy from Jimmy’s Farm rubbing shoulders with a rugby player.

Le Café Anglais scooped a few awards but the real winners, for me, were the ones who remained civil despite their success. I was delighted to see the Great Queen Street gang getting an award, I’ve been there and can confirm that it is excellent and not just for the food – which is hearty, English and meaty – but also with the staff. When a friend who used to watch football in the place (before it went gastro) loudly lamented the loss of the TV screens the guy showing us to our table didn’t flinch but politely agreed. That’s manners.

It was also a delight to meet The Greenhouse maitre d’ Jean-Marie who, despite the madness of the press room, made me feel he had all the time in the world. No wonder the restaurant won the Outstanding Service Award and the Award of Excellence. Appropriately, they were given the award by Silvano Giraldin, the outgoing and much-respected face of Le Gavroche, whose 37 years at the two-Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant have made him a legend within the industry. Asked what makes a good restaurant and they both agreed: the staff. With bosses like this you wouldn’t mind putting in an extra shift.

One repeated theme of the night was the credit crunch (and this was before the Lehman Brothers bombshell) but most seemed unconcerned, convinced that if you offer quality food at the right price people will still happily pay for it. All this said with an award tucked under their arm, you can sort of see their point.
Scoring a Pointe
From prima donna to Maradona, or is that the other way round? The English National Ballet is mixing it up with some fancy footwork, a surge out of the wings or perhaps down the left wing and a bit of the old 'one-two' in a new show about our beautiful game - called ‘The Beautiful Game – A Football Ballet’ lest we’re in any doubt. This is an historic timeline of great footballing moments, which could bring in a flood of new ballet fans as grown men are reduced to bitter and patriotic tears in the stalls over Gazza in the dentist’s chair, Maradona’s infamous ‘hand of God’ or Geoff Hurst’s 1966 World Cup ‘They think it’s all over’ goal. Can you please switch off your mobile phones and keep the ‘who-are-ya?’ chants to a minimum?
The Time Lord does Prince of Denmark
The hottest ticket in town this winter is David Tennant’s ‘Hamlet’. Well, it’s technically the Royal Shakespeare Company ‘Hamlet’, arriving in London town from ol’ Wills’ birthplace of Stratford-upon-Avon, but no one really cares if it’s done by the RSC or the wannabes from X Factor; we all just want to see Dr Who Alas-ing poor Yorick! All 6,000 tickets sold out on the day booking opened with determined fans queuing round the block in the West End. It might help if David could replay the opening night a few times by jumping in a phone box…
Put your money where your mouth is!
This is decidedly not rock ‘n’ roll in the slightest. The famous tongue and lip symbol for The Rolling Stones has been sold to the V & A, that bastion of old relics (and no, we’re not talking about the people who curate the collections). As if it’s not enough that John Pasche’s original drawing (which for nearly four decades has acted as a motif for rebellious teenagers, who want to cock a snook at the System) is now incarcerated in a museum, the £50,000 price tag is going to pay for school fees. Presumably - for fifty grand - at an institution where pupils join the choir, not a rock band…
October 2008
24th October
Boris v Jingjing
17th October
Soaps in Pole Position
September 2008
23rd September
Chips too Chavvy for Chelsea
16th September
The London Restaurant Awards
August 2008
26th August
No Smoking, No Ducks, No Barbecues
20th August
The Olympics
July 2008
24th July
Sandwiched Out
17th July
The Show Ain't Over 'Til the Fat Lady's on Page 3
June 2008
26th June
Love All at Wimbledon
16th June
Miller Puts the Heat on Tennant
May 2008
27th May
Booze Banned on Buses
20th May
Same Again?
April 2008
23rd April
By George
11th April
Back to the 80s
March 2008
28th March
How do You Solve A Problem Like Medea?
20th March
Flight Fantastic
February 2008
20th February
Dark, Satanic Turnmills
6th February
A Diamond in the Drink
January 2008
21st January
People Wanted for Plinth
14th January
Boo! Hiss!
December 2007
28th December
Tate That - A Hirst for Art
20th December
Christmas Shopping
November 2007
27th November
Mind the Gap
26th November
London On A Tray
October 2007
26th October
Leaving the Station
14th October
The Sky's the Limit
September 2007
26th September
The Play Within A Play
19th September
Fashion, Frocks and Celeb Shocks
12th September
Saying Tanks for the Mammaries
August 2007
24th August
Heathrow under Siege
17th August
Gormless
10th August
Losing Face
July 2007
24th July
Are We Reaching Boiling Point Yet This Summer?
13th July
Red Ken versus Blonde Boris
June 2007
22nd June
Last Orders at the Fag Machine
11th June
London the Musical
May 2007
21st May
What Lurks Beneath
10th May
The Stuff Dreams Are Made Of
April 2007
27th April
London’s Walk on the Wild Side
20th April
Stand Behind the Yellow Line
13th April
Like Water for Chocolate
March 2007
23rd March
So, Another Magazine
16th March
Avoiding iContact
February 2007
23rd February
Sex and Art...
16th February
C-Charge Protest Fails to Bring Down Government
9th February
Live Earth London
January 2007
26th January
A Vote for Shilpa is a Vote for Britain
18th January
Carriage on up the West End
December 2006
29th December
Food for Thought
22nd December
A Poisonous Marketing Campaign
15th December
In for a Penny, In for Five Pounds
November 2006
17th November
Big Department Stores Leave Santa Out in the Cold
10th November
Failing to Save the World
October 2006
27th October
Frozen Prawns and Melting Icecaps
20th October
Predatory Pelicans and Happy Woodland Folk
13th October
Hope at last for east end of Oxford Street
September 2006
16th September
Lite the Blue Paper and Stand Well Back
9th September
Of Poles and Twiglets
August 2006
25th August
Free Fares For the Fat and the Fashionable
11th August
London Friendly
4th August
Archway To Organic Heaven
July 2006
21st July
London - Celebrity Frat House
7th July
Out of the Galleries into the Streets
June 2006
23rd June
Mayors, Nightmares and Marias
16th June
Downright Rude in Paris and London
9th June
Enter the Inferno
May 2006
26th May
Curvaceous Border
12th May
Vegging Out
April 2006
21st April
The Camden Crawl
17th April
Down the Pan
13th April
I Want to Break Free
9th April
Big Brother seems to have been left in a bar somewhere
7th April
Don't Box Me In
March 2006
24th March
Political Correctness Reaches New Heights
February 2006
24th February
A Stadium's Tale: Cup Final Goes West
17th February
Modern Musicals are Rubbish
10th February
The City-Side Alliance
January 2006
20th January
February Sales
20th January
Moby Sick
13th January
Glass Half Full
3rd January
Three Cheers for the Tube Station Workers
December 2005
22nd December
January Bites
16th December
A Remarkable Year
November 2005
25th November
And a Partridge in a JCB
11th November
Driving Miss Sadie
4th November
Spam, Spam, Spammity-Spam, Shakespeare, Zorro, Chico and Rasputin
October 2005
28th October
Trick or Treat?
21st October
We Don't Mind a Little Delay...
14th October
Final Resting Place for Young British Artists
September 2005
16th September
Just a small urn for me, please barman
9th September
DRINK! DRINK! DRINK!
2nd September
The Free Tenor
August 2005
30th August
Samba Rhythms Breaking Out All Over The Stadium
20th August
Getting Behind the Iron Farce