London 1 Paris 0

King's Cross and St Pancras hub show we're soaring ahead

The last piece of the jigsaw at the King's Cross - St Pancras transport hub was laid this week as London's reputation continues to soar ahead of their Gallic neighbours at the other end of the "Chunnel".

It may well have taken two more years and considerably more millions than expected, but the new Underground ticket hall - the third at King's Cross - is slick, smart and spacious. Without any Londoner's bias, it puts the transport system that awaits Eurostar passengers at the Gare du Nord in Paris to shame.

When the Eurostar first opened in 1994, the paltry features at Waterloo station were a source of embarrassment when compared to the ostensible charms of the imposing Gare du Nord. It may well have been rather run down and dated, but there was no denying that the Gare du Nord was an impressive structure boasting more than a soupcon of je ne sais quoi.

The unveiling of the Eurostar terminal at St Pancras International in 2007 raised the bar, however. Everything about the restored Victorian station oozed class - except the rather shambolic Underground links, which have now been perfected (although admittedly to the tune of an Olympian £800m).

It comes as no surprise that the number of visitors coming into London is now rising while those going the other way for a sejour in Paris are on the wane. The exchange rate helps, for sure - never has there been a cheaper time to book a hotel break in London - but this only tells half the story.

In reality, Paris has lost its edginess and its appeal for many Brits. An older generation are put off by the French capital's dirtiness - as encapsulated by the "crottes de chiens" (dog mess) on the pavements and by the insalubrious 10th arrondissement that awaits visitors on arrival; a younger generation see a city that is no longer open all-hours, one in which the "noise police" reign supreme and where night clubs are closing at an alarming rate.

Both parties are hit by steep Parisian prices which see you pay as much as €10 (£9) for a pint of beer and €30 (£27) for a simple lunch in a bog-standard bistro. Yes, Paris may have a faster and cheaper metro system (which stays open till 2am on weekends), not to mention the innovative Velib bike-hiring scheme, but virtually all its museums command a hefty entrance fee - a stark contrast with London's excellent free national institutions - while pricey accommodation could see you return home minus and arm and a leg.

I used to live in Paris and returned there this month for a few days to catch up with some old friends. While it can't be denied that the City of Lights retains its romantic, historic, even archaic charm, its failure to adapt is all too evident. The smoking ban and subsequent increase of noise outside popular establishments has seen many key clubs such as La Locomotive in Pigalle or La Fleche d'Or in the trendy 17th district close down.

But London too has suffered from closures, with a deluge of pubs and iconic clubs such as Turnmills, The Key and The Cross all calling time. But the difference is that London has got over these set-backs and come back stronger. In Matter and the O2 Arena, London boasts one of the largest clubs and most popular live music venues in Europe, while a whole flux of nightspots have cropped up south of the Thames.

Paris is clearly feeling the pressure - which is why the Paris tourist board recently commissioned a leading French director to make a short film promoting the city to a younger generation as part of an online viral campaign. Directed by Yvan Attal (the husband of the singer and actress Charlotte Gainsbourg), the film aims to have a completely different take on the capital in a bid to advertise it to today's internet-savvy generation.

Take it from me - the film is a clichéd shambles. Two lovers sit in a museum café filming each other on their mobile phones with the woeful dialogue: "I love your face. I love your face." "I love your face too".

With Rufus Wainwright's morose Leaving For Paris playing in the background, the pair (who look straight out of Camden, are French but ridiculously speak English together) make their way around some of the lesser known sites of Paris while taking in established spots such as the Eiffel Tower and the Place de la Concorde. They do all this while kissing or playing with their phones (sometimes both). It could easily be an advert for Orange or Vodafone.

I saw the premiere of "Kisses from Paris" as it was unveiled at a special soiree at the Tate Modern during the World Travel Market in mid November. My French colleagues cringed with embarrassment throughout. "The Attal film is pathetic," said Nick Buteau, a London-based Parisian who publishes Turn Left guides for various European destinations. "That's what you get when a good idea comes up and 20 pre-retirement civil servants get in the way."

The overwhelming response to the film is that it shows little more than a "bobo" (gentrified) side of Paris. One comment on YouTube said it was "abhorrent". Another held no punches: "This is a classic example of where film creators get stuck so far up their own arses with art and perfect technique that they produce something that everybody else in the world thinks is sh*t."

It would be interesting to see the results of a promotional short film made about London. One would like to hope Visit London would forego approaching someone in the Richard Curtis mould and punt on an up-and-coming director with something original to say. Isn't the whole point of a viral campaign that it's meant to be anti-establishment, edgy and provocative - which is precisely why the French attempt falls so flat.

Paris still remains the most visited city in the world, but it has certainly fallen behind London, New York, Barcelona and Berlin in terms of cool. Paris's tourist board have tried - and failed - to reinject a bit of oomph into what campaigners have tagged the "Capital of Sleep".

As epitomised by the run-down Gare du Nord, Paris seems trapped in the past. London, meanwhile, keeps on innovating and adapting. The new Underground hall at King's Cross proves just that - and will no doubt turn French tourists green with envy every time they hop off the Eurostar. It is any wonder we pipped Paris for the 2012 Olympics a few years back?

Beefeaters Banned for Bullying

Two years ago Moira Cameron made history by becoming the first ever woman Beefeater, joining the ex-servicemen who are officially responsible for guarding the Tower of London. This month she made history once again at the centre of an inquiry which saw two fellow Yeomen Warders sacked for bullying. Allegations which emerged during the investigation included her uniform being damaged, her online Wikipedia entry having been tampered with and "harassing" notes left in her locker. Beefeaters today primarily act as tour guides for the Tower, however they must have previously completed at least 22 years service in either the Army, Royal Air Force or Royal Marines.

Marble Arch Enemy

For anyone who's had the misfortune of driving through central London during rush hour it will come as little surprise that Marble Arch has been voted Britain's third scariest junction in a recent survey to find the UK's most feared road system. Topping the poll was Birmingham's famous spaghetti junction, ahead of the confusing segment of the M8 which runs through Glasgow. Two other of London's junctions made the top ten list: the Hanger Lane Gyratory in west London (fifth) and neon-lit Piccadilly Circus (seventh). Surrounded by a multi-lane traffic roundabout, Marble Arch is reachable only by subway, making it one of London's trickiest monuments to visit - although there are plans to move it to Speakers' Corner in Hyde Park.

Badminton Off To Wembley

Taxpayers will be spared shelling out £40 million for a temporary Olympic arena to host the badminton and rhythmic gymnastics events at the 2012 Games after an "agreement in principle" was made to switch the events to Wembley Arena. The original plan was to construct a temporary facility near the Olympic Village in east London but it has been shelved to save money in the wake of the global economic crisis. London Mayor Boris Johnson, who won't be representing Team GB at "whiff-whaff" in 2012, said he was "pleased" with the decision and thanked both of the sports' federations for their understanding. Hear, hear!

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