The Peasant

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The Peasant is really two different eateries under one roof. Downstairs is a crowded and cheerful gastropub, with a menu of substantial tapas and platters. Upstairs is a restaurant, with widely-spaced tables and an entertaining collection of circus memorabilia on the walls. We elected to eat upstairs, where the portions were just as large, but the cuisine was an elaborate mixture of modern European and Eastern fare.

The highlight of the meal by far was a grilled kangaroo starter. This was a meat I had always assumed was just a gimmick, but here was a succulent white meat, a little like a guilt-free veal, accompanied by a crunchy leek and peanut salad. Duck paté with pickled red cabbage was also superb, an old favourite given new zest by the wholesome sourness of the cabbage.

A tendency to over-elaboration on some dishes was the only fault, and it was not a major one. A good piece of venison had its flavour drowned by a sweet sauce - not unpleasant, but a bit of a waste. Similarly, wok-fried broccoli with black bean sauce was too strong-tasting to make a good side dish.

Stay downstairs if you want hearty, simple pub fare. If you want a good, mid-priced restaurant meal in relaxed and entertaining surroundings, then the Peasant Upstairs is well worth a visit.

The Peasant