Doon

Pop "Doonstairs" from Trafalgar Square's Scottish bar and restaurant Albannach and you will enter the world of Doon, a new cocktail lounge named after the river extolled by the poetry of Robert Burns.

The black and crimson interior means the first impression is one of doom, but the superb service and the expansive, ingenious drinks list soon puts an end to any gloom.

Cleverly titled cocktails - such as the flawless Mr Fawlty (a thick blend of vodka and red fruit with, most interestingly, a leaf of fresh basil), the French Beret (Gallic Martini and berries) and the Downing Street (a wickedly strong Gin Martini made with Tanqueray Number 10) - provide an entertaining and exciting start to the evening.

At £7.50 to £10 a pop the cocktails are admittedly far from two-a-penny, but they are exceedingly good. Cheaper beers, wines and straight spirits are readily available, and for whiskey connoisseurs the selection - from Albannach's impressive reserves - is second to none in central London.

Almost as rewarding as the cocktails is the original array of bar bites on offer - anything from venison sausages dipped in honey to the exquisite haggis samosas (a personal favourite, and another piece of razzed up Highland). Each bite is £5 a bowl but it's best to plump for a trio plate, which, at £9 (or the price of a cocktail), is a comparative bargain.

Just inside the entrance an open bar and dance-floor area gives onto low-ceilinged corridors with private booths which are stylish but cramped. Smooth early evening jazz goes down well but degenerates, rather quickly, into nondescript funky house: Doony Tunes, it seems, and played way too loud. With resident DJs on the way, the playlist will only get better and it should not take long to cover the cracks.

All in all, Doon is a delightful slice of Scotland, perfectly placed in the heart of the West End. The house specialty - fun, delicious and innovative cocktails - are excellent. The service is genial, thoughtful and, above all, friendly.

One to watch.