Camerino

Formerly Paolo's, fans of this place will be pleased to hear that the name change was instituted by Paolo himself and he still walks the tables each night, chatting with customers and challenging them to eat more. The restaurant has been re-branded, decorated with plush curtains to deaden the noise, and a new menu has been introduced, but it has retained the intimate, friendly style of former years and is packed nightly with delighted regulars and lucky passers by who have stumbled across a surprising gem, just off the Tottenham Court Road.

Ushered to our seats with an agreeable amount of friendly fuss, we opted for a four-course blow-out as soon as we sat down. The place has an irresistible air of indulgent fun. A glass of Prosecco was the perfect compliment to starters of seared scallops and foie gras. The latter was a little drowned in balsamic sauce, the only quibble in the whole meal. Our waiter suggested an excellent Cannonau Reserva, a subtle red, for ?26. Spaghettini with mullet roe and grated vegetables, and penne with sundried tomatoes and basil were both full of flavour and pleasantly light, which was lucky as I was almost defeated by an exceptionally tender and tasty lamb shank to follow. My companion wisely opted for sea bass with baby artichokes and leaks. Falling down in our reviewing responsibilities, we were unable to manage even a small pudding, but settled for a glass of Limoncello and some wonderful biscotti.

The meal was a triumph. My jetsetting dining companion was impressed that such a gourmet pleasure palace could also enjoy a completely unpretentious, friendly atmosphere. The staff were delightful, helpful and friendly, and a short chat with Paolo made us feel like old friends.

Camerino is a real treasure. Combining reasonable prices, superb food and a charming old-world atmosphere, this is one of the best all-round dining experiences in the West End.