The menu here reads like a comforting childhood reminiscence with some sophisticated bunting thrown on top. Devilled kidneys on toast, followed by an excellent slow-roast belly of pork, crowned by the apple crumble and custard would be a typical trail through the large and delightfully time-consuming menu. Canteen isn't just for full-on dining though; wake up to a bacon sandwich or relax in the afternoon with a pot of tea and some freshly baked biscuits. Cutting to the chase - there's a different roast every day - either lamb, beef, pork or chicken - served with a toothsome garnish of roast potatoes and veg, all bathed in lashings of thick, meaty gravy. The restaurant is - as the name suggests - set out in the canteen style, so beloved by the restaurateurs of the capital over the last few years. It's got an atmosphere for breakfast, gets bustling at lunchtime, remaining busy in the evening. The enthusiastic staff do an admirable job at keeping it ticking over, although sometimes you do have to wait a while for your food. A great place to bask in culinary nostalgia, or for visitors to uncover what traditional English cuisine is really made of - all at really affordable prices.
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