The local Italian restaurant, with its formica tables, groaning portions and cheap, acidic red wine, has been suffering over the past decade or so. Gastropubs have started making many of the same dishes, and Indian and Oriental restaurants have undercut them for Dulwich Clapham and County Hall), takes the traditional menu - pasta vongole, mussels, bresaola, mushroom risotto, and so on - and places it in a 21st-century setting.
The dining room is abolutely stunning. A vast ceiling, acres of space between the tables, and a mixture of exposed brickwork and a deep red colour scheme make for a space that is both glamorous and welcoming. Service is efficient but unhurried, and combined with a very decent bar area this makes you feel very comfortable. The only real flaw is the prices, which are far higher than you'd expect to pay in a neighbourhood Italian.
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The local Italian restaurant, with its formica tables, groaning portions and cheap, acidic red wine, has been suffering over the past decade or so. Gastropubs have started making many of the same dishes, and Indian and Oriental restaurants have undercut them for Dulwich Clapham and County Hall), takes the traditional menu - pasta vongole, mussels, bresaola, mushroom risotto, and so on - and places it in a 21st-century setting.
