It's almost as if this restaurant above the Clapham North Pub doesn't want to be found, with a private entrance tucked away as it is on Landor Road, flagged by a discrete blink-and-you'd-miss-it sign. It's so private you even have to ring a bell to get in. All this gives the impression that Four O Nine wants to remain a well kept secret, only frequented by those in the know. At the risk of annoying the regulars, we're here to spread the good news. Coming from the Michelin starred restaurant, Chez Bruce, Iain Smart has taken his experience there and fused it with an Asian flavour to wonderful effect (Smart by name, smart by nature). His speciality, crisp pork belly, is a case in point - paired with watermelon, coriander and soy. The calming purple hued interior, dimly lit and modern, is perfect for a romantic night out. It all adds up to a welcome refuge particularly when you consider the usual chain options on Clapham High Street. After this, Four O Nine may no longer be the well kept secret it was but, when the place is this good, we think it's only fair to share.
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