Though it has the look of a Carnaby Street style bar, with funky lighting and minimalist decor in gunmetal grey, this new Brixton joint differs from the trendy West End in three ways: it's friendly, it's cheap, and the chef really, really knows what he's doing. Expecting to be served the sort of delicate nibbles that flashy bars specialise in, we were surprised by some of the best and most authentic gastropub fare we'd eaten all year.
A huge burger, charred on the outside, pink and overflowing with juices on the inside, was accompanied by delicious lemony relish and a giant plate of perfect chips. A scrummy seasonal pheasant dish had a red cabbage accompaniment that mixed with the bird's sauce to make an amazing gravy mush. And the best leek and potato soup I've ever eaten came in a vat-like bowl and cost only £3.50, which is about what you'd pay for a bowl of peanuts in most places like this.
To my regret, I was far too full for a pudding by the time I'd tucked into my first two courses, but since we paid just over fifteen pounds a head for a huge, delicious meal, with drinks, I shall certainly be returning to sample them. There is also an extremely stylish bar (reviewed in the nightlife section).
Any flaws? Well, the small space and pared-down style make it a bit of noise trap, so it's not ideal for a date. And given how good it is, it's likely to be very hard to get a table, once word gets out. Brixton's best restaurant, and the area's first genuine destination bar.
Story of London Festival
Museum of London, EC2Y 5HN
1st June - 30th June 2009
This major festival organised by the mayor's office takes us on a tour... More
Get Loaded in The Park
Clapham Common, SW4 0AA
30th August 2009
Orbital, the zany techno brothers who used to work the decks while wearing futuristic torch-beam sunglasses,... More
Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones
Victoria and Albert (V & A) Museum, Porter Gallery, SW7 2RL
24th February - 10th May 2009
Hat designer Stephen... More
Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones
Victoria and Albert (V & A) Museum, Porter Gallery, SW7 2RL
24th February 2009 - 10th May 2009
Hat designer Stephen Jones... More
Star Wars: A Musical Journey
The O2, SE10 0PE
10th April 2009
The word 'phenomenon' could have been created for Star Wars; its world domination spans over 30... More
Clapham locals flock to this excellent gastropub on the weekends, when it's advisable to book a table. They come for the food and also because ... More
When Franco Manca say they use slow-rising sourdough to make their pizzas they mean slow-rising. The organic flour, yeast and water sourdough mixture is left ...More
The area where this hotel is located has become the vibrant cultural heart of London, with theatres, concert halls and art galleries lined-up against the ... More
Bristolian duo Massive Attack, the pioneers of trip-hop and one of the most innovative and influential groups of their generation, drop into the Brixton Academy ...More
This museum is a valuable resource of information on the multi-cultural and multi-ethnic nature of London's society and culture, with temporary exhibitions on diverse aspects ...More
Cheap catalogue-based chain store which sells almost everything. Argos is a bit of national institution and offers good deals on all sorts of household goods, ...More
Started in London, this chain selling natural health and beauty products has tried to stay true to its founder’s activist ethos. It does not stock ...More
Connexions is a countrywide information and advisory service for 13-19 year olds and people with special learning needs or disabilities under 25. They offer an ...More
The original DJ Bar continues to boast a sparkling music policy, funky crowd and friendly vibe. International fame ensures the place is crowded each and ...More
By no means your average watering hole; the Effra defies most attempts at description or classification. From the outside it looks like a shabby South ... More
A night out at this South London hotspot is a truly religious experience. Located in the foundations of a converted church, Mass’s reputation for quality ...More
Get the FREE monthly guide to London entertainment, arts, concerts, sport, book signings, and essential event information delivered directly to your inbox.
![[LondonTown.com Header Image (Thames Scene)]](/LTtemplates/template_images/londontown.upper.logoheader.thamesscene-cc.jpg)
Though it has the look of a Carnaby Street style bar, with funky lighting and minimalist decor in gunmetal grey, this new Brixton joint differs from the trendy West End in three ways: it's friendly, it's cheap, and the chef really, really knows what he's doing. Expecting to be served the sort of delicate nibbles that flashy bars specialise in, we were surprised by some of the best and most authentic gastropub fare we'd eaten all year.
