Hive

Though it has the look of a Carnaby Street style bar, with funky lighting and minimalist decor in gunmetal grey, this new Brixton joint differs from the trendy West End in three ways: it's friendly, it's cheap, and the chef really, really knows what he's doing. Expecting to be served the sort of delicate nibbles that flashy bars specialise in, we were surprised by some of the best and most authentic gastropub fare we'd eaten all year.

A huge burger, charred on the outside, pink and overflowing with juices on the inside, was accompanied by delicious lemony relish and a giant plate of perfect chips. A scrummy seasonal pheasant dish had a red cabbage accompaniment that mixed with the bird's sauce to make an amazing gravy mush. And the best leek and potato soup I've ever eaten came in a vat-like bowl and cost only ?3.50, which is about what you'd pay for a bowl of peanuts in most places like this.

To my regret, I was far too full for a pudding by the time I'd tucked into my first two courses, but since we paid just over fifteen pounds a head for a huge, delicious meal, with drinks, I shall certainly be returning to sample them. There is also an extremely stylish bar (reviewed in the nightlife section).

Any flaws? Well, the small space and pared-down style make it a bit of noise trap, so it's not ideal for a date. And given how good it is, it's likely to be very hard to get a table, once word gets out. Brixton's best restaurant, and the area's first genuine destination bar.