Hunan

If you've ever been in a Chinese restaurant looking over your shoulder at the exciting things that the Chinese diners are eating while you tuck into your sweet 'n' sour, but too scared to order them, then Hunan is the place for you. There's no menu, just an endless procession of food, arriving at your table in groups of five or six mouthful-sized pieces.

The cuisine of the Hunan region is saltier and spicier than that of the Cantonese, and very elaborately prepared. Everything is wrapped, packed and stacked, with meats and fishes mixed in exciting combinations, and lots of glorious flavours.

Though this is an attractive restaurant, the seating is pretty cramped. Service can be fantastically rude, and the charming manager will flirt outrageously with the prettiest girl on your table.

But if you go to restaurants because you love to eat, rather than because you enjoy fawning waiters, then this is one of the finest experiences in London. The food is utterly authentic, immaculately prepared, and constantly surprising.

It's not exactly cheap, but this is real gourmet cooking. The meal you'll get here is as good as the tasting menu in any of London's top restaurants.