Iniga

Tucked into a basement on a quiet street in South Kensington, Iniga is a hidden gem of an Italian restaurant, with a delightfully opulent setting, luxurious but laid back vibe and a very strong menu put together by Head Chef Claudio Deli. The location has already killed off a few perfectly good bar restaurants but Iniga should fare better. If our meal is anything to go by, this place will be going straight in the little black books of the Ladies who Lunch.

We were braced for a flashy, empty dining experience. The place is impeccably and expensively decorated and our waiter, who looked like he was on a break from filming Baywatch, breezily informed us that the place was a new venture, and doubled as a busy bar at weekends. All very pleasant, but not always a good sign for greedy guts like us. How wrong we were - each and every dish was impeccably prepared and presented and we honestly haven't had such a good meal all year.

The menu adds new subtleties of flavour to staple Italian classics. Our improbably attractive waiter steered us through the wine list, and brought mezze while we decided on our food.

Scallops, roasted vegetables and tempura calamari were all excellent, unflashy starters, whipped into shape in a way that showcased the fresh ingredients. The kitchen got a bit more complex with the main courses, but successfully. The signature squid ink tagliatelle were irresistibly good. A perfectly cooked rack of lamb disappeared completely while I was still wondering how the jus was so good. Thoroughly satisfied, we nonetheless knocked back a pannacotta and a chocolate tart for sheer greed - delicious.

Style over substance? Not at all. Extremely good is more like it. Lovers of Italian food will be impressed with this place.