Joanna's

 

Joanna's has been lording it over this sleepy suburb for twenty-seven years now, altering its cuisine and decor to match changing fashions, and stay ahead of the pack. Its appearance is a little schizophrenic, but perfectly pleasant, mixing the polished wood and foodie prints of a friendly neighbourhood eatery with some smart pieces of design and an open kitchen, more suggestive of a flashy West End restaurant.

The food seems to be at its best when it sticks to simple brasserie fare: certainly the only duff note was the chili squid, which were a little bland. Aside from that, we were very impressed, especially considering that this is a part of London where good restaurants are few and far between. Seared tuna with warm potato salad was a toothsome, strong-tasting starter, which would have made a main course in many London restaurants. A burger was so large and juicy that it was impossible to eat politely, while maple-cured pork loin had that dry, charcoaley flavour that matches perfectly with mustard.

Prices are perhaps higher-than-average for this part of London, but the excellent wine list is very reasonably priced, the service is efficient and friendly, and the food is surely the best for miles around. They also offer a simpler menu at lunchtime, and a brunch from 10:30.