Kasturi Restaurant

 

If you run an Indian restaurant in this neck of the woods - even a mid-priced one with an interesting menu - you have to work to stand out from the crowd. Kasturi's gimmick is a winner. Phone in advance on a Monday or Tuesday, and you can head into the kitchen to watch your main courses being cooked - by a magnificently moustachioed pair of chefs - check the flavour, add some spices if you fancy, and generally break down the mystique between curry and customer. Watching a nan bubble on the sides of the tandoor is particularly entertaining.

Gimmicks aside, this is a very decent curryhouse. Prices are higher than on Brick Lane, but the quality of the ingredients is good and the menu offers some intriguing North-West Indian variants on curryhouse strandards - including the first gourd I have ever eaten in this country that actually tasted good, and a black lentil dal of rare depth and pungency. The pickles with the popadoms were clearly home-made, the staff were friendly, efficient and kind enough to offer to move us without being asked when a birthday party at the next table became rowdy. We were also impressed by the wine list, which was short, interesting and excellent value.