L'Escargot

 

The name suggests a love for the most stereotypical Gallic dish, and the restaurant was in fact the first establishment in London to serve fresh snails. Original owner George Gaudin farmed them in the cellar. Since Gaudin’s day the restaurant has gone through many hands, and ups and downs, and is under Marco Pierre White's ownership these days (the first chef to win three Michelin stars). The restaurant is split into two rooms. Upstairs the walls of the Picasso Room are hung with works by the legendary Spaniard, offering a more formal, more expensive and even grander dining experience. Nevertheless, the downstairs space dotted with Chargall prints is enough for most of us mere mortals; mirrored walls, high ceilings and subtle illumination makes up for a lack of natural light. Flawless presentation, perfectly poised flavours and solemn staff, who treat a meal as seriously as international diplomacy, add to this experience. Delicate stomachs beware, but a commitment to rich, rich food will please the rest of us. A duo of roast duckling and confit had us purring with delight. The combo of smoked haddock, colcannon and poached egg could have been overly salty, but the chef somehow brought out the flavour. This is first class dining, even if you don’t make it up to the first floor.