Lindsay House is one of the most fashionable reservations in London, which is, at least in part, a consequence of the fact that its door is always closed. Press the buzzer, and endure the appraising glance of the doorman, and you'll discover a restaurant that's well worth the silly ritual. Richard Corrigan is the head chef, and has been awarded a Michelin star among a clutch of awards for his much-imitated version of modern British food. The menu is constantly changing but always includes real surprises and daring taste combinations, made with the neat, fiddly intensity that is usually reserved for European or Japanese cuisine, but full of the gutsy power and indulgent richness of classic British comfort food. The painstaking approach is emphasised by an occassional Ramsay-ish outburst from the kitchen, as some unfortunate sous-chef is upbraided for over-braising the ox cheek. Prices are high, but the lunch menu is excellent value so long as you avoid the bargain-free wine list.
Notes: Early dining available for up to 40. Separate vegetarian menu.
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