Market

Market in Camden isn't at Camden Market nor is it actually a market at all. Just to clear up any confusion, it's a restaurant on Parkway and a jolly good one at that. Chef Dan Spence, ex Medcalf in Exmouth Market and a graduate of Leith's, co-owns the place with the very professional meeter and greeter Denise Tang. Together they've given Camden a new destination restaurant. Setting the tone are the bare brick walls, zinc topped tables, blackboards and wooden chairs like we had at school. When the decor is this functional and unfussy it's saying 'let food do the impressing'. And it does - impress that is. No self-respecting restaurant in London is without pig's cheek these days but here they do an excellent job of it, on a par with St John - the original and thereby the yardstick with which such things are measured. The enticing menu continues with faggots and mushy peas, devilled kidneys on toast, whole sea bass and fresh greens, all responsibly sourced and in season. So it's off to Market, perhaps not to buy a pig, but certainly to enjoy parts of the pig that have been slowly cooked to perfection.