Masala Zone

 

Spice up the end of summer with a trip to the Islington branch of this highly respected modern Indian. Authenticity is at the core of this home style cooking adapted, but not bastardised, for the Western palette. Their charming al fresco terrace is the perfect place to catch the tail end of our belated summer and the most secluded spot on Upper Street. Powerful heaters are on hand to stave off the onset of winter chills.

Smiling staff ensure that a meal there is an absolute pleasure and on our visit the manager wowed us with his incredibly detailed description of every dish and its history. Masala means spice and each dish we sampled was bursting with an array of unexpected flavours. Feeling slightly overwhelmed by a menu that takes in everything from vindaloos to veggie burgers, we opted to start with a grazing platter piled high with perfectly crisp samosas, incredibly moreish sev puri (crunchy biscuits piled high with creamy spiced mash and three tangy chutneys) and other delicious morsels.

Thalis are the house speciality and give you the opportunity to try an array of different dishes. My vegetable option was truly sublime, chunks of sweet potato floated happily alongside fragrant bananas in an almost orgasmic combination of sweet and savoury flavours. My partner’s choice gave me grounds for concern as prawn dishes are often let down by amoeba sized pieces of seafood which remain undetectable to the naked eye. My worries were allayed by the arrival of a Prawn Thali piled high with the juiciest tiger prawns I’ve ever eaten in the capital.

Wonderfully full we contemplated their traditional dessert menu which serves as an initiation into the Indian concept of sweetness. The caramel kufti was a concoction of homemade ice cream served on a bed of summer fruits. Kheer was a chilled Indian chocolate rice pudding which teetered just on the right side of richness. Masala Zone is a treat at any time of year but autumn is the ideal time to indulge in their range of warming curries and refreshing starters and puddings. A mug of ginger teas provided the perfect finale to an evening of sumptuously healthy eating.