If you're tired of Japanese 'food' that turns out to be a series of miniscule novelty combinations of expensive ingredients from around the world, then this utterly traditional restaurant, with its Kimono-ed staff and fabulous sake, may be the place for you. Teapot chicken soup was a subtle, steaming mix of earthy umami flavours, and we were blown away by the quality of our unfashionably straightforward sushi - a real reminder of how simple food can be made extraordinary with the right ingredients and right chefs. A main course of eel grilled over charcoal was neither tough and astringent, nor slimy, just a melting mass that had absorbed all the flavours of its cooking, and still tasted gloriously fishy. Beef was impressively juicy, with a sticky, light teriyaki sauce.
Though not particularly cheap, this is excellent value, and a reminder of the qualities that first made Japanese cooking so fashionable. Traditional food made from great ingredients and cooked with care and intelligence. No wonder it's such a favourite with staff and diplomats from the nearby Japanese Embassy.
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Today (Sunday) Miyama Mayfair closes at 22.15
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Joseph Cornell: Wanderlust
Exhibitions | Until 27th September 2015
Royal Academy of Arts 6 minutes walk from Miyama Mayfair
Nearly 35 years since Joseph Cornell's last solo show in the UK, the Royal Academy of Arts presents his glass-fronted ...More
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Attraction | Until 27th September 2015
Buckingham Palace 8 minutes walk from Miyama Mayfair
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Exhibitions | Until 11th October 2015
The Queen's Gallery, Buckingham Palace 8 minutes walk from Miyama Mayfair
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