Moti Mahal

 

Dining at Moti Mahal is a real privilege. The owners of this slick, sleek establishment have transported the finely-honed skills developed over 50 years in their successful restaurants in Delhi and planted them firmly here in the heart of Covent Garden.

Attention to detail plays a major part here. From the glowing, candlelit lanterns forging a path down the stairs to the lower bar, to the extensive range of whiskeys displayed on up-lit glass shelving units and the presentation of each attractively arrayed dish, this is a restaurant that cares about what it does.

Moti Mahal offers traditional cuisine, with a strong emphasis on cooking using the Tandoor clay oven, and blends it with fresh modern décor and excellent service. In fact, the first thing that strikes you as you enter is the service; attentive, yet unassuming this is a place that cherishes its diners. While the ambience is, some might say, a tad clinical – all whites, creams, glass and cool leather – the informed, approachable staff give this place real warmth.

The food is also truly exceptional; solid standards mix with fresh combinations to create a unique, lively menu. The scallop seared with onion seed and coriander stem starter was mouth-wateringly succulent, offered a perfectly balanced combination of flavours and textures and was one of the best dishes I’d tasted recently. The pan-fried cakes of corn, spinach and lentils were surprisingly moist and oozing flavour. Make sure you try something from the clay oven – the restaurant’s speciality. The venison kebab we chose was infused with just the right amount of spice and comes highly recommended.

The chef here clearly loves what he does; experimenting when appropriate (ice-creams and sorbets often get a dramatic twist as new combinations are explored to great effect), keeping in line with tradition when not appropriate (try the “ground lamb kebab from the erstwhile kitchens of Awadh”).

This place is spacious. When we visited it wasn’t nearly as full as it should have been. The food’s great. The service is excellent. Prices are reasonable. Go and pack it out.