The Easton

Freezing cold and slightly wet, we took shelter in this welcoming pub for a bite to eat... but they practically had to roll us out of the door at the end of the night. This is a friendly local, crammed with drinking regulars, but serving Nigel Slater-esque mountains of rich food and boasting a small but delicious cellar, all priced moderately. After an unforgettably good evening, this place rocketed straight into our top ten pubs and is far and away the best in the area.

Intricately etched windows, smoke stained wallpaper and knackered but comfortable furniture give this place the feel of a lovely old boozer... but the crowd on our visit was made up of young trendies. The staff are a delight, obviously proud of their reputation and casually attentive, dropping by to check on us every now and again and making us feel very welcome.

We kicked off with a couple of pints and a so-so mozzarella and tomato salad, which was big enough to share, full of good ingredients but heavily overdressed. It was the only bum note of the whole evening. I had a pork shoulder for my main which was brilliantly presented and perfectly cooked, and satisfyingly huge. My buddy helped himself to the steak, which arrived on a bed of delicious buttery potatoes and pancetta, laced with creamy sauce - a sinfully rich but completely irresistible feast. He couldn't manage a pud after that but I dutifully ordered a slice of chocolate cake, which was perfect.

Our smiling waitress picked out a lovely bottle for us, some superior South American Cabernet Sauvignon which was very good value at under ?15. After the meal we were too full to move and sat in stupefied silence over a couple of coffees. We both agreed we'd be back there as soon as we could.

The Easton have got it taped - good food, great wine, and they encourage the kind of friendly atmosphere that instantly wins you over and makes you wish you lived round the corner. First rate.