Umu

 

Although prices at this restaurant are not on the cheap side of eating out, there is a very fairly-priced lunch menu; and for somewhere so impressive in both cuisine and dining experience, the a la carte prices are no higher than dozens of other upmarket spots.

It is, of course, ever so discreet, hidden in a side road off Bond Street, wih half-a-dozen tables in a sleek mirror-filled room, most of which is taken up by the sushi bar at which your meals are prepared. Including the chefs, and meet-and-greet team, there must be at least two members of staff for every diner, so you'll find your (beautifully designed) glass gets topped up by a uniformed figure at almost every sip you take.

We went for the cheapest of the set meals - a snip at only £60 a head for six exquisitely small dishes - and we were duly bowled over by the quality of the food. Tsukuri of salmon, scallop and sweet shrimp was richly flavored with miso, and wonderfully comforting. Grilled amberjack was a simple dish prepared to perfection, and the sushi was magnificent.

It’s not what you’d call value for money, but as extravagant meals go, it’s undoubtedly a good one. It’s the only restaurant in London that serves this Kyoto cuisine, so you’re guaranteed a meal like no other, with simple flavours intelligently combined and exquisitely presented. This is authentic and delicious, just don’t expect to leave with a bulging belly or a bulging wallet.