One of London's oldest coffee and cake shops, Louis Patisserie - despite its name - is in fact Hungarian by origin, founded by immigrant Louis Permayer in 1963. It hasn't changed much since - although the old, unsmiling waitresses who would emerge metaphorically from behind the establishment's iron curtain with trolleys of creamy, indulgent cakes and dollops of Communist charm have recently been replaced by some younger, chirpier ones. Located a stone's throw from the tube at Hampstead, Louis Coffee and Tea Room is instantly recognisable by its blue and yellow awning that frames a vitrine filled with even more flamboyant cakes than your average Patisserie Valerie (think cream buns, fluffy slices, gooey eclairs, fruity tarts, almond pretzels, macaroons, marzipan cookies and chocolate cakes). Inside studded brown leather seats, wood panelling, tiny round tables, spherical lights and garish carpet have, unlike the waitresses, probably not been replaced since Permayer arrived in the Sixties. The place still attracts the last remnants of NW3's wartime refugee population from Eastern Europe, especially on Sundays. Louis is a divisive place - some people find it stuffy, stale and expensive, while others revel in its antiquated extravagance, dated décor and unique atmosphere so different to any of London's many coffee shop chains. Whatever the case, you'll need a long session on the Heath afterwards to walk off all those calories.